Minature Aircraft's

FURY EXTREME

JULY 28, 2002

 I was planning on flying today but it has been extremely hot and very windy, 20+ and quite gusty so I figured I'd work on the heli some. I had previously finished building the tail case and I'm following up with the pitch slider assembly and the tail rotor hub/grips assemblies. I like the one piece metal hub and the thrust bearings in the Fury, It is a very tight and positive system straight out of the box that many manufacturers charge extra for in the form of an upgrade or it simply isn't available at any cost.

The Tail System:

Here's the assembled Pitch Slider Assembly for the Fury Extreme. Nice sized bearings used throughout.

The picture above shows the Tail Hub/Grips Assembly . I really like how well MA has thought out the kit and the packaging of the kit. Each assembly is documented in the book as it's won assembly, you are told what bag number is needed and what tools are required.

 

Here is the completed tail assembly. This new tail design is pretty slick, zero slop and a torque offset built-in.

 The photo to the right shows the new tail system has built-in torque offsets. I like what they've done here. Notice the belcrank is pretty much perpendicular to the tail rotor output shaft. The backside of that belcrank is parallel to the tail output shaft. This is the neutral position of the system and notice the angle of the tail rotor grips. As you can clearly see in this photo the blades will have at least 10 degrees offset.

I love this design and wish other manufacturers would develop similar systems. The tail rotor will be very easy to setup once the radio and servos are installed. Just set everything to 90 degrees and away you go.

If I have the gear mesh set correctly this tail system should work great for a long time to come. You can clearly begin to see what you're paying the extra bucks for when you get into the details of the kit.

I plan to run NHP 105mm Carbon Tail Blades on this system. That large of a rotor disk should offer plenty of tail rotor authority coupled with the long 33" carbon boom.

 

 

 

 

Washout Assembly:

 

Here is the contents of Bag 9-B. This is all the parts for the washout assembly. It should be noted MA has gone back to a plastic washout base. The Fury Expert has a metal one. MA and their field reps found out the metal washout base wore quickly and precision control was lost due to slop wearing in. The new plastic unit is very tight on mine, so tight I need to ream it with some 600 grit before I fly with it, it's too tight as it is now.

 

 Here is the bearings and brass insert that mounts inside the washout mixer arms. The arms are molded very accurately as the bearing press in nice and tight and the brass center spacer also fits nice and snug in the center where the bore is even smaller to hold the brass bushing.

The arm on the top has only it's lower inner bearing installed. The botoom arm is shown with the brass spacer installed and the remaining spacer and top bearing just to the right.

The molded plastic washout is made symmetrical, you can use it either way front to back, there is no offset to worry about, just make sure you put it right side up as shown in the manual.

I was expecting C-Clips on the washout link pivot rods, instead was another type of circlip that looks like the number eight "8" which is open at one end and in the middle. It is very small and there is only one good way to install it. See the photo below of the clips and rods. The trick is to set the clip on a piece of wood and tap the shaft down through the middle of the clip. It works well, they even give you an extra in case you break it or lose it.

Above you can see the special clip. Lay it on the wood as shown and tap the rod down into the inner hole of the clip, take your time and be careful. It doesn't take much force to get the clip onto the shaft. By putting the clip near the head of the wood you can put the assembled arm over the second clip and repeat the process. The dogleg link will hang off the side of the wood as shown in the photo above. I snugged mine up closer to my links, I figure they may be less likely to get caught on a cleaning rag or my shirt sleeve when I'm monkeying around with it or cleaning it.

The assembled washout assembly. No slop at all, in fact, it's kinda tight on the mast, need to ream it slightly.

THE SWASHPLATE:

Hre's the swashplate, all you have to do is screw the balls in the inner and outer rings. I bet the links are difficult to install!

THE FUELTANK ASSEMBLY:

 

Here's Bag number 8. It contains the fueltank and fuel fittings and even the necessary fuel lines required for installation. You can see the velcro, fuel tubing and fueltank in the right chamber of the bag. The smaller metal parts are in a spearate chamber of the bag. Again, MA does it right here on kit quality, separating the sharp parts from the softer parts.

 

Here's a shot of the fuel tank fit test from the right of the heli. The pressure nipple fits into a cup in the fuel tank tray helping to insure proper tank placement. The velcro is two sided and is an effective and very simple solution.

Here's the left side of the heli showing the fuel tank mounted. There is just enough room under the switch to slip the velcro through and down around the tank. The canopy has a flared ridge built into it to facilitate the fuel line and nippple exiting the fuel tank as seen in the photo above. I understand there is a new 90 degree fitting available that is much lower in profile. This seems as though it will work as long as the canopy doesn't move and pinch it.

THE HATORI SB-15 MUFFLER:

 

Here's a picture of the Hatori SB-15 Muffler. It is huge, much larger than my 60 size Hatori one piece and also my TT70 muffler which is also a one piece pipe. This is my first two piece Hatori, I hope I don't regret buying it. I just felt that the two piece is a smarter solution as I've heard that most one piece large pipes won't survive a crash well or they break off part of the motor.

 Here's the header components that come with the Hatori system. Note the two O-Rings already installed on the yoke.

The muffler includes engine to muffler bolts and they appear to be of high quality. The yoke is slotted to help fit most any 60-90 size engine out there. You can see in the photo of the yoke a small phillips head screw installed this is on the bottom of the yoke in the picture. To run an exhaust pressure tap remove this screw and replace with a brass threaded nipple provided.

Also included was an aluminum gasket. I chose not to use it and bolt the yoke directly to the engine. One less gap to worry abour leaking in my mind. I also thought the bolts were barely long enough with the gasket installed, I wanted to have a bit more thread to help keep it tight.

 

 

 

Here are two shots of the stand offs, the left photos is the top standoff. I had to drill a hole in the frame for this one. Theshot on the right shows the bottom support. It installed into an existing hole in the frame.

 

Here's a picture of the pipe after it was installed. A slight offset in the arms were required for a proper fit.

More to come soon!

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