Miniature Aircraft's

FURY EXTREME


JULY 13, 2002

Getting into the swing of building again, the head is complete for the most part. I still need to install the flybar hardware but I think I will do that out of order to the manual, I will build it when I install the swashplate and washout. Below is a photo of the head as it now stands. It is very tight and the bearing are exremely smooth. I really didn't care for the head button being glues in and the screw just spreads the plastic out. I thought that was rather cheesy. Just thread it and put some red locktite on it would be fine or even a left hand thread would have been better. I just mounted the head on the mainshaft and the damn thing is a little crooked, figures.... so I'll have to pull it and glue in on the head again when finally mount the head to the mainshaft and can spin it around and check for runout.

I think Minature could have done a better job in this particular area both in design and telling you when to do it early on rather than waiting until it is on the mast.

 


Building the frames.

 
The photo above shows the left frame and the parts needed to start building the frames. There are two channels, a carbon 8.18/1 ratio support side plate and a bag of main bearing blocks, swashplate guide and some gold anodized stand-offs. 

Here is the left frame with the carbon brace in place, stand offs and bearing blocks installed. This is the outer side of the left frame, the bearing blocks are bolted on the other side of the frame.

The photo above is the left frame viewed from from the inside. You can see the two vertical channels, two main bearing blocks, the front bearing in the tail front transmission, a swashplate guide and some gold anodized frame stiffeners.


Here's the next assembly bag, it contains the mainshaft and the main gears and bearblocks. It was nice to see the bearings already installed in the bearing blocks, one less thing to do.

Here's a photo of the Delrin/Teflon Main gear and crown gear. You can see the nice spoked wheel effect on the gold anodized auto rotation hub. Very high quality materials!

This is a shot of the bottom of the assembled main gear. The Sprag Bearing holds alot of oil and this oilite bushing should help seal the oil in the bearing where it belongs.

The photo above shows the tail drive gear. Setting the mesh between this gear and the crown delrin gear is critical. Very solid bearing supports here should help keep it running true and problem free if you set it up correctly. You can slide the metal gear fore or aft slightly to reduce or increase the mesh. You don't want to get too far out of alignment though, if you can't get it tight enough you may need to remove a shim above the main gear to let it go up closer to the tail gear so the will align better. Use Red LockTite on the shaft bearings here.

Here's another angle of the tail drive gear. The bearing and two screws that are in the vertical channel were pre-installed in the channel. I'm not sure why they do this unless the alignment is very critical and they don't want us consumers doing it wrong?

The photo above shows the main gear in place. Notice the metal tail drive gear aligns with the white crown gear. You don't want it moving very much from centered. Shim or remove shims from the mainshaft/auto hub to get it right as shown above. You want as much tooth to tooth contact as possible. I have a slight high spot on my gear, I set the mesh to drag slightly on the high spot but runs smooth on the rest of the gear. I have minimal backlash as I understand it doesn't like slop here, it can eat the delrin crown gear.

This photo show the desired location of the metal gear, the back of it flush with the edge of the crown gear.

Here is a shot of the servo mounting tray. I chose the inside fold option as my gyro (GY401) is less than 40mm wide.

This is the servo/fueltank tray assembly parts.

After installing the receiver-battery/fueltank tray to the left frame, we're ready to get the mating right frame installed.

 

The receiver/battery tray installed along with the fron lower canopy stand offs. MA eeven includes the velcro!

The flat G10 plate under the frames is the upper fuel tank mounting plate. Unlike most other kits, the Fury has it's fule tank suspended under the plate and isolated with padding and held in place with Velcro (supplied).

Here's a closeup of the belcranks in place after the frames halves have been assembled.

After the frames were bolted together, it was time to install the lower frame brace and the landing gear. Now it's starting to like like a heli!

More to come soon!

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